Winter Storm Prep Checklist for Tri-Valley Homes (Do These Before the November Rains)
Nearly every storm intrusion call we take traces back to something on this list that was not done in October.
Written by the San Ramon Water Damage Pros crew — IICRC-certified technicians working to the ANSI/IICRC S500 standard on water losses across San Ramon and the Tri-Valley. Guidance here reflects how we actually run jobs, not general advice.

Almost all of the storm water damage we respond to in the Tri-Valley is preventable, and preventable cheaply. It is not exotic structural failure — it is gutters, downspouts, drains and grading, all of which stopped working quietly during seven months with no rain.
Here is the list, roughly in order of how much difference each item makes.
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+1 (201) 277-9344Drainage — The Highest-Value Items
- Clear gutters completely, including corners and downspout inlets. Oak and sycamore litter fills them faster than people expect, and an overflowing gutter puts a curtain of water down the wall and into window flashing.
- Extend downspout discharge at least four to six feet from the foundation. Discharging at the base of a wall is the most common self-inflicted drainage problem there is, and on expansive clay it also creates a permanently wet zone that drives differential soil movement.
- Flush every area drain and yard drain, and confirm the outlet is clear. Sediment accumulates invisibly over the dry season and disables them silently.
- Check retaining wall weep holes on hillside properties and clear them.
- Walk the perimeter and look at grading — ground should slope away from the house. Settlement over decades frequently reverses this.
- Look at the driveway: on a hillside lot, does it channel surface water toward the garage?
The Building Envelope
- Inspect the roof after the first wind event of the season rather than before it — Diablo winds lift shingles and loosen flashing in October, and that damage leaks in January.
- From the ground with binoculars, look for lifted, curled or missing shingle tabs, displaced ridge cap, and flashing that has pulled away at chimneys, vents and skylights.
- Go into the attic on a bright day and look for daylight through the sheathing, plus any staining on rafters.
- Check window and door weatherstripping and thresholds, particularly on the weather-exposed elevation.
- Clear debris from window wells and light wells.
- Look at skylight seals, which are a common and under-inspected leak point.
Mechanical and Below Grade
- Test the sump pump if you have one — pour water in until it cycles. Then fit a battery backup if it does not have one, because peak flow and storm-driven power outages arrive together.
- Check crawl space vents and access points for water intrusion paths, and look at the vapour barrier while you are down there.
- Confirm you know where the main water shutoff is and that it actually turns. A valve that has not been operated in twenty years often will not close when you need it.
- Fit insulated covers on exterior hose bibs and disconnect garden hoses, particularly in the hillside neighborhoods where freeze risk is real.
- Insulate exposed pipe in the garage and crawl space.
Mid-Season — The Part Everyone Skips
Doing this in October and considering it handled is a mistake, because the wind that accompanies these storms keeps depositing material all season.
Re-clear gutters in December or January, especially after a wind event. In a neighborhood with heavy canopy — Montevideo, Crow Canyon, most of Danville, Lafayette — a gutter that was clean in October can be full by January.
Check the area drains again for the same reason: sediment washed down during the first storms is exactly what clogs them for the second.
And walk the perimeter during a storm rather than after one. Watching where water actually goes while it is raining tells you more in five minutes than any dry-day inspection.
Insurance and Documentation, Before You Need Them
- Confirm whether you carry a water or sewer backup endorsement, and check the limit.
- If you are near a creek corridor, on a hillside runoff path or downhill of open space, price flood insurance by September — NFIP policies typically carry a 30-day waiting period and cannot be bought reactively.
- Photograph your property in good condition now. A before-condition record is genuinely useful in a claim.
- Save a restoration company’s number in your phone. During an emergency at 2am you do not want to be searching.
What to Have Ready Before You Need It
Preparation is usually framed as maintenance, but half of it is having the right things within reach when a storm is already running. None of this is expensive and all of it is useless if it has to be bought on the day.
- A meter key, kept by the front door. Meter box lids seize, and prising one at midnight with a screwdriver rarely goes well.
- A torch that works, plus spare batteries, somewhere you can find in the dark.
- Sandbags or absorbent socks if your property has ever taken surface water at a doorway or a garage apron. They sell out regionally once a storm is forecast.
- A wet-dry vacuum for genuinely small events, understanding that it is for a puddle rather than a flood.
- The number of your plumber, your insurer and a restoration company saved in your phone rather than looked up while standing in water.
- A photograph of every room, taken now. Establishing what the house looked like before is the documentation nobody has and everybody wants.
- A charged power bank. Storm-season outages coincide with exactly the moment you need a phone to make calls and take photographs.
- Knowledge of where the main water shutoff and the electrical panel are, shared with everyone in the household rather than just whoever read this.
Frequently asked questions
October, before the first significant storms, then a shortened repeat in December or January after the wind has dropped more debris. The roof inspection specifically should happen after the first wind event rather than before it.
Gutters and downspouts. Clearing them and extending the discharge several feet from the foundation prevents more storm intrusion than anything else on the list, and it costs nothing but an afternoon.
It depends on your specific lot rather than the city. Worth pricing if you are near the San Ramon Creek or Bollinger Creek corridors, on a hillside runoff path, or downhill of open space. Note the 30-day waiting period — it has to be in place before the season.
Clearing gutters and area drains again after the first significant storm, because that storm brings down the debris that the pre-season clearance could not. This is the single most skipped item on any winter checklist and it is the reason drainage that worked in November fails in January. Ten minutes in December is worth more than an hour in September.
If your property has taken surface water before, yes — placed at the specific opening that took it, not distributed hopefully around the house. If it never has, the more useful use of that time is checking that drains and downspouts are clear, since blocked drainage causes far more storm losses here than water volume does.
The short version
Gutters, downspouts, drains, grading. Four things, one afternoon, and they account for most of what we respond to every winter.
If water does get in despite all of it, we run storm response across the Tri-Valley 24 hours a day, including tarping in active weather.



